North late home


How to eat the ancient lantern? The Song Dynasty popular fried with sugar to eat

2018-03-01 15:38 beijing evening news TF010

"Last night, the flower market light as day. To willow, after dark." Tomorrow is the Northern Song Dynasty Ou Yangxiu's "night". The Lantern Festival is the "Lantern Festival", also known as the "Spring Festival", "Lantern festival". The full moon, watching the lights, riddles are three major themes of the Lantern festival. This is the "lantern" section, when the diet? The "Lantern Festival" and "why yuan Zi", "dumpling", "dumplings", "floating balls" and "dough" and "glutinous rice", "sugar gold".

Author: Ni Fangliu

The lamp "lanterns" crested New Year paintings in the hands of the boy, meaning a bumper grain harvest of peace

"Glutinous Rice Balls" name is due to Yuan Shikai?

Ming Liu Ruoyu "Ming history": "eat dumplings made by glutinous rice flour...... That is also called Jiangnan Glutinous Rice Balls"
The Lantern Festival to eat dumplings. Xu Ke "clear barnyard class notes - diet class two" said: "Glutinous Rice Balls, said a" dumpling ". Biden call "lantern", more than yuan Xi will feed it." This is the name of the "Lantern Festival" and the diet should be called, is in the Ming dynasty. Ming Liu Ruoyu "history of the Ming Palace" is known as the "Lantern Festival", Glutinous Rice Balls also introduced the practice: "eat dumplings made by glutinous rice flour...... Jiangnan called 'Glutinous Rice Balls'." In the Tang and Song Dynasties and historical notes and will not see, is called the "Lantern Glutinous Rice Balls".

The Lantern Festival is also called "Glutinous Rice Balls" is a popular saying, Yuan Shikai became president of the Republic of China, because of the taboo "lantern" homophonic "Yuan Xiao", then in two years (1913) was renamed the "Glutinous Rice Balls ordered". But from the collection of Yuan Shikai during the reign of culture related documents signed with the "Republic of China History - culture" (Chinese Second Historical Archives Series), the author did not find the relevant content. From the Ming Palace "history" records, Yuan Shikai was renamed "Glutinous Rice Balls" that is not reliable, "Glutinous Rice Balls" name has long been a popular name in the South and North. Qianlong forty-four years in Hebei, "Ninghe county" "old folk" said: "before and after the Lantern Festival, lantern lit town three, also want to celebrate the country lamps...... Food Glutinous Rice Balls." Moreover, if Yuan Shikai is really the "lantern" as "Glutinous Rice Balls", "Lantern Festival" in the name seems to be more should be changed, the reign of Yuan Shikai in two years (1913) to the Republic of China five years (1916) the past few years, the compilation and publication of the book also should not appear in the "Lantern Festival" two words, but a variety of local chronicles have no such avoidance. As of four years of the Republic of Beijing "Shunyi county", "day (the fifteen), the fruit is fed system." Here the "Lantern fruit" is Glutinous Rice Balls.

Figure: the Qing Dynasty Tianjin Yangliuqing "Lantern Festival" celebration depicting the north family Lantern Festival custom.

However, the relationship between Yuan Shikai and the "lantern" is difficult to break. According to the "Zhuzhici Beijing", when the Republic of China signed "millets Shanqiao" capital "zayong" - lantern Zhuzhici said: "to see the bottom Shu drift, Dengxi every shake. To sell a two, when Hong Xian afraid of lantern." Yuan Shikai when the emperor ascended the throne, Gaiyuan "Hongxian" only for 83 days, died in June 6, 1916, was "Yuan Xiao". When the streets of Beijing quickly spread Songs: "President Hong Xiannian, the fifteen have Glutinous Rice Balls. A Glutinous Rice Balls lantern Niang, Hongxian emperor life is not long." Yuan Shikai is a superstitious person's taboo lot, "fear the lantern" is possible, the yuan family and the people around the "Lantern Festival" to avoid saying he may please. Perhaps it is because of the fear of Hongxian lantern ", but the Ming and Qing Dynasties in the folk is not how popular the" lantern "is called open. In the past, mainly in the North used the "lantern" and "Lantern Festival", a national traffic way, even used to call "Glutinous Rice Balls" southern people also called off "lantern".

The Lantern Festival to eat Glutinous Rice Balls customs began when?

Southern Song Dynasty Zhou Bida "Lantern cook Mariko": "Xingcan floating clouds, floating bead turbid water"

There are a lot of the name, such as "Yuan", "dumpling", "dumplings", "lantern", "Reunion", "light circle" and "light Mariko" is refers to the Lantern festival. At first, there is a difference with the dumpling dumpling dumpling, no stuffing, is solid, with sugar and eat dumplings; sweet fillings, eat no longer with sugar. To the Qing Dynasty, China has little difference with the dumplings, dumpling stuffing is.

Figure: the Qing Dynasty Tianjin Yangliuqing "Lantern Festival" celebration depicting the north family Lantern Festival custom.

"Glutinous Rice Balls" is a source in aging, into the boiling soup cooked, it is also called the "dumpling" and "water"; for cooked float up, the ancients called "floating balls"; because it is made of glutinous rice flour, also known as the "dough" and "glutinous rice" "sticky, gold" and "water pill"; because many sugar or sweet fillings fillings, also known as "sugar group", "Yuan" and "sugar ingot".

Now the market can see all kinds of fillings such as sugar Glutinous Rice Balls stuffing, bean paste, sesame paste, meat stuffing, vegetarian stuffing, ancient have. Ming Han Yi "meaning" water "left Yiya" records: "Cheng fine glutinous rice flour with sugar a little wet, to make the stuffing, for spring, cooked." The Ministry of health "Xu Ming song" "water pill" said: "the filling of white sugar, peeled walnuts, hazel, pine nuts, honey or bean paste, cooked in boiling soup for." Qing Yuan Mei "with garden fresh single" "turnip dumpling" records: "the radish grater, roll the cooked, to smell, slightly dry, add onion, sauce, put in the stuffing group."

The Lantern Festival is eating when there should be Glutinous Rice Balls customs in the song dynasty. Southern Song Dynasty Zhou Bida "Lantern cook Mariko" floating Glutinous Rice Balls has been mentioned in the poem: "I know the date of reunion with everything. Tang Guan find old flavor, to the new work or stove. Xingcan clouds, floating bead turbid water. At the age of this series zayong, said dan." Here the "Pearl" is floating Mariko, namely Glutinous Rice Balls. In the song, but could not see the Lantern Festival to eat Glutinous Rice Balls records.

Then, before the Song Dynasty Lantern Festival the Lantern Festival to eat what Tang popular is called a "face seal (word:" Yuxi "under the" jade "into" insects ") food." Face seal "is a kind of pasta, a bit like Steamed Buns, Northern Song Dynasty Lv Yuanming" at the age of miscellanies "known as" thick skin Steamed Buns". X is a fun bet Bu appliance, the five generation Wang Renyu "Kaiyuan Tianbao" records: "each to fifteen January, made to official posts, bu Xi, position high, or gambling feast, laugh at the thought. "Because the face seal in the spring to eat, also known as" spring Xi "; because can not position height, and" on "the official seal". In addition to "Yuxi", in some places, the Lantern Festival will eat cake "Yu liang". The five generation of Feng Zhi "Vincent" miscellanies "cited" Luoyang "section of Kinmen old age Festival", the Tang Dynasty in Luoyang people, "fifteen January, making fire moth children, Yu Liang eat cake. "In some places after the emergence of the lantern, some people do not always eat dumplings. "When Guang Ji" records, the Northern Song Dynasty also eat a called "soup" mixed salt and soy broth; Zhu Xian Ming "Qu another book" said, eat Zongzi Lantern Festival which is similar to "the angle of fall".

The lantern is cooked food?

The Northern Song Dynasty Chen Yuanliang "at the age of" Sheng Guang Ji "the Lantern Festival the coke, and for a long time"

The Lantern Festival on the boiling soup cooked this modern eat, should also be a way to eat the invention. Chen Yuanliang at the age of "Guang Ji" "selling diet" lead "at the age of miscellanies": "Beijing (now open) with mung bean powder bucket soup, boiled glutinous as pills, sugar Huo, called salt bean dumpling...... Dieting is all spring." Boiled glutinous rice as the pill "is a boiled dumpling.

Figure: U.S. Peabody Isaacs Museum China custom watercolor scene lantern making grinding glutinous Rice noodles.

But in ancient times, "boiled lantern" is only one of the first to eat, and not the mainstream, early lantern eat a lot like fried buns, fried Deep-Fried Dough Sticks as "fried lantern" etc.. Qu Dajun of the Qing Dynasty Guangdong language "and" language "tea" food said: "Guangzhou customs, year end to fire burst Nuogu, dubbed the cannon Valley, thought of fried dumplings stuffing heart. Fried dumplings, glutinous flour as the size of the circle, into the fried, to worship and to feed their relatives and friends also." This fried lantern called "sesame", still can eat. According to the Qing Gu Lu "Qing Jia Lu": "spring, people toss Rice noodles for the pill, said dumpling. With leaven powder stuffing, such as bread, fried oil, said, enjoy the first festival for the residents." This fried lantern Guangzhou also known as the "oil", in addition to sacrifice, of course, edible. In addition, the Yangtze River Basin in Suzhou and other places also have the custom fifteen fried dumpling.

The fried customs when "Qing Jia Lu" lead "Huang Ming Tong Ji" said: "the cover in the Yongle ten years, the Lantern Festival with sugar cake is round, diet, age of thought often." In the late Tang Dynasty to the late Northern Song Dynasty has deep fried lantern, Tao Gu Sui and Tang Dynasties to the fifth generation mining complex allusions written essays "clear differences recorded" mentioned in the "Pearl painting" is fried, "and" release history of anonymous Yuan said, is "spring oil painting pearl". This is steamed stuffed. Li Qing Quan "things synonymia" lead "river table record" said: "let the Yu poison sugar, today is the Lantern sub." From the Ministry of health "Xu Ming song" "Deep-Fried Dough Sticks introduced production methods, such as:" today is the lantern with stone white waxy Rice noodles, soup of the form. Lock to molasses bean paste for small, cooked in oil." The difference between Glutinous Rice Balls and oil is only different ripening.

Figure: U.S. Peabody Isaacs Museum China custom watercolor scene lantern making grinding glutinous Rice noodles.

When the Northern Song Dynasty Kaifeng Beijing Lantern Festival although there have been boiled but then more popular Glutinous Rice Balls, still eat oil, commonly known as "bite coke". Coke is oil, probably after frying a coke yellow named. The Northern Song Dynasty Chen Yuanliang "at the age of" bite Guang Ji "coke" lead "at the age of miscellanies" said: "the most prosperous the Lantern Festival coke, and for a long time." At that time the street selling oil: "a prime focal head. Where to sell, will be called the drum drum. Every bamboo shelf a green umbrella, hanging red gold ball lights installed Mei Lou, bamboo frame before and after a lantern, the drums should shoot around, that swirled. A list of the streets, everywhere there." This description of the drum and later sell coke filled with cries of "Glutinous Rice Balls Glutinous Rice Balls to sell, sell small and round Glutinous Rice Balls, Tang Yuanyuan", there are different approaches but equally satisfactory results, full of festive atmosphere.

In addition to the "fried lantern", in some places such as Hubei and Hankou fried lantern". But whether it is "fried lantern", or "fried lantern", the earliest is popular from the south, while the north is basically a boiled dumpling". So, the North South fried or scrambled to see the lantern lantern in the past, feel very strange.


Source: Beijing Evening News

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